Lunch at Gramercy Tavern
The accolades for the Gramercy Tavern are voluminous and well established. A Gramercy district legacy, the Gramercy Tavern actually has two dining areas, the formal “dining room” for the big kids and the Tavern Bar (pst… it has similar food, a more relaxed/casual atmosphere, the same insanely good service, and amazing drinks). Truth be told, the Gramercy Tavern is perhaps more well known for its legendry bar service, than any of it. But I digress, Isabel (my daughter) booked us for 11:45 am on a Thursday morning for quick lunch before heading out for a day of festivities, including Olmsted later that evening. So yes, we packed a lot into a little time. Work, work, work.
The entry at Gramercy Tavern is classic New York Street Entrance with a canopy and big picture windows on a concrete facade. The interior is decidedly modern, with a cool farm to table mural that runs the length of the upper ceiling and relics of horses, butter churns, and random farm-implement-prints adorn the hallways, a harkening back to Gramercy Park, the namesake district for this area which apparently is well connected to the pastoral. All that said, it is indeed a relaxed atmosphere and the wait staff is friendly, and attentative, but not too attentive, just in that perfect casual fine dining attentive. Do they all take the same pills? If so, I’m in.
Perusing the wine menu, again, all the toys for the big kids. I was not able to consider a bottle as Isabel was not drinking before noon, and she is only 18. However, a quick review of the wine list and a Santa Barbara Syrah from Piedrasassi Winery in Santa Barbara County caught my eye. Yes, that will work.
Isabel ordered up the Beef Tartare with reviso, squash, and rosemary crackers, while I started with the Roasted Oysters (what else?) with celery root, horseradish and lemon. Eschewing the traditional kosher salt bed, the oysters arrived on a bed of micro kelp (baby kelp?) which was in and of itself pretty cool. They were the delicious Atlantic style, smaller than Pacific oysters, a little sweeter and just plain divine.
The Syrah arrived and it did not disappoint. Sashi Moorman (winemaker at Piedrassi) is certainly in the running for cool-climate-Syrah-Master (per Wine Enthusiast) and this Santa Ynez Valley offering does not disappoint. Moorman informs his Syrah with influences both from the Central Coast as well as the Northern Rhone. The appelation is a blend of Cassara and Patterson vineyards.
Dark and purplish Ruby in the glass, the nose is leather and red cherry and earthy with savory aromas. Smoke and slate, hot and dry wtih some funk, and wild berry, this a brooding monster of a Syrah in the mid pallette but finishes with smooth tannins at the back end. Yes, this will be a good start to lunch.
Isabel's Tartare arrived and it was a good as the picture, instead of a raw egg, the stuff that looks like a raw egg is actually a dijon blend, and quite tasty and played nicely off the fat of the tartare (yes she shared).
My main arrived (mushroom pot pie - got to get your vegetables!) and it was insanely good with multilevel french pastry top as flakey and light as paper (sprinkled with thyme)with a savory good mushroom stock, with mushrooms, dried white cannellini beans (the little white ones), kale and thyme expertly handled in the mushroom stock/gravy.
As it was still early in the day and I had not had my coffee yet, Isabel and I passed on dessert but I did not forgoe my caffeine. No, no, an Espresso Martini was in order, and the phenomenally talented bartender certainly delivered. My Espresso Martini arrived with a nice Kahlua foam, floating coffee beans, vodka (of course) and a shot of espresso. I see now why the Gramercy Tavern is also a great bar with a restaurant. Yep, no complaints here. Great lunch, Isabel (thanks for booking). We’re off to explore more NYC before Olmsted in Prospect Heights, Brooklyn this evening!! Work, work, work indeed.
