A night out on the Upper West Side/Tribeca
So a few months before this trip, I read of a restauranteur that had taken some heat for expressing conern that restaurants were unfairly receiving the lion’s share of the pandemic restrictions, making it difficult to profitably operate one’s already profit challenged business (ie. a restaurant). This owner received some blowback for this stand and I figured this was exactly the kind of person we in the restauraunt world should be standing with. Just so happens, the restaurant is Joanne Tratorria, a namesake to Lady Gaga’s sister who died of cancer and is owned by Gaga’s Dad, Joe Germanotta. Joe received some backlash from the googlesphere for wanting to help his place with a goFundme page and for having the audacity to complain that restaurants were unfairly receiving the lion's share of regulations and hoops forcing a certain segment of the economy to bear the sins of the whole. Oh the effrontery, oh the audaciousness, oh the humanity. That said, I was supporting with my hard earned greenbacks and committed to (at the very least) sampling some Italian glasspour wines and checking out the Meatballs (more on this later). Isabel and I made reservations at Joanne Trattoria at 68th West and Columbus at 7 pm for a beginning to our evening soire. (A brisk walk through the Park from East to West from Isabel’s domicile on the Upper East Side and we were there in 40 minutes - about 2.5 miles (!).)
First off, when at an Italian Restaurant, always inquire as to the meatballs. Meatballs are a barometer of the seriousness of the cuisine. Good meatballs, good cuisine, bad meatballs, well you know…. Turns out, Joanne Trattoria is well known for its meatballs (and rightly so!). A nice balance of fat to meat, beef to pork (great texture) just the right amount of bread crumbs, rich with medium spice and fresh tomato acidity. Unsurprisingly, we had the Meatballs, Spaghetti, and Broccolli Rabe with Garlic. The glass pours were plentiful on paper but 4 were “sold out” upon asking (guess the Pandemic hits everyone) and later 2 asks which were initially deemed MIA were produced (a Barbaresco and a Montepulciano) which were consumed in earnest. Note to self: never feel sheepish for not having one of 250 plus bottles available at The Vault. If Lady Gaga's dad’s place is having trouble keeping an inventory, what chance do the rest of us have?) Skipping dessert at Joanne Trattoria (no, no Gaga sighting and no Gaga’s Dada Joe sighting) we left for our second destination for the evening, the Wine Bar Terroir in Tribeca.
Terroir boasts 45 glass pours and a menu not as well organized as you would expect. What the menu lacks in organization, it more than makes up for in variety of glass pour offerings and the first wine selected was Mas de Boislauzon Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2011. I’m a sucker for Chateauneuf and this one did not disappoint. Repleat with spices, earth, smokiness, cherries and raspberries, and lingering spice finish, this one aimed to please. For a second glass recommendation the Somme at the bar produced a 2018 Trasto (100% Prieto Picudo) from western Spain, Noelia de Paz. Tierra de Leon is a region above Portugal (and below Leon) on the northwest side of Spain. Turns out Prieto Piucudo is the varietal that the Tierra de Leon is most known for and by a rule, red wines produced here must include a minimum of 60% Preito Picudo or Mencia. (Per Vivino: the aromatic grape has good acidity and full fruit flavors, it is defined in part by its small, compact bunches and its ability to withstand drought.) Trasto is 100% Prieto Picudo and a “village wine” which excaped the village and became an export phenome. Which goes to show you, do not discount a wine or a varietal simply because you have never heard of it. Without the recommendation by our steadfast somme, the sampling of Prieto Picudo never would have happened and I would have been the lesser for it. Viva la Prieto Picudo! Unique, well priced and delicious - a triple threat!
Our evening ended at Bar Hugo at the the top of the Hugo Hotel 20 floors up with sweeping views over the Hudson River and New Jersey. The capper for the evening was El Tapatio: codigo blanco tequila 1530, cointreau, cucumber, jalapeno, clinatro, lime along with steak tacos and chips and guacamole/salsa. A perfect ending for a perfect evening. (Editor’s note: while the El Tapatio is also served in pitchers for $75, it could possibly be deemed “too much of a good thing.” The single glass was perfection however.) Let’s do it again tomorrow night!! Second bite of the Big Apple complete: equally delish and gratifying.
