A visit to Hillcrest Vineyards, Melrose
Jun 2
When Richard Sommer founded Hillcrest Vineyards in Melrose, East of Roseburg in 1961 , little did he know he would be kicking off a wave that would begin the Oregon Wine Industry. Hillcrest is Oregon’s Oldest Estate Winery, having the distinctive title of the oldest bonded post prohibition winery in Oregon. Richard Sommer and Dick Erath (Erath Vineyards) were both young wine enthusiasts attending UC Davis (wine industry classes - there were no Enology or Viticulture Majors back then) with a secret target of taking their newfound UC Davis knowledge to Oregon.
Richard planted French Pinot Noir clones in 1961 before Willamette was a thing, proving the doubters wrong on Oregon’s place in the world wine industry.
Fast forward 40 years and Dyson DeMara and his wife Susan have assumed the reins of Hillcrest and Dyson is proving a worthy successor to pioneer Richard Sommer, setting wine enthusiasts back on their heels with the distinctive style and character of his wines. Bold, forward, and overflowing with varietal flavors, they make a statement that this self assured winemaker is every bit as innovative as founder Sommer was in pursuing a course that will set him apart.
“Our philosophy is old world in the vineyard and the winery. The vines are dry farmed, low yield, all organic. We’re hands off as possible in the winery. Gravity flow, no filtering. We manually press everything to tase. I want wines to develop their own unique personality” adds Dyson.
Hillcrest has recently been honored as the first and only Umpqua Valley winery to be recognized by the organization SLOW WINE. SLOW WINE selects top wineries around the world for not only their wine quality but also for their approach towards natural farming and winemaking. Their use of dry farmed, hillside vineyards that are farmed naturally as well as use of patented concrete fermenters and extended ageing in “Botti” are a couple of things that set them apart. Hillcrest was the first to plant Malbec in Oregon in 1959 and the first to produce Malbec. Richard Sommer bottled his first Malbec in 1964.
Dyson continues with his tradition of “Old Stones” 2016 Malbec with beautiful notes of black plum, blackberry, rose hip, dark cherry, a velvety mid palette, rounded off with medium acidity and a ripe, medium tannin finish. The wine is fermented in concrete tanks like many Malbecs produced in Mendoza, Argentina. Yes, please!
Dyson also sources fruit from partner producers in the old world, adding to his Umpqua AVA line up. His 2016 “Lo Americano” is a tribute to Pobleda, the heart of Priorat, Spain, and his version is a 75% old Vine Garnacha/25% Carnigan blend that echoes the old world style Dyson is pursuing in his Umpqua wines. Medium body, spicy and fruit forward, rich but not heavy - this one is a winner for anyone who likes the Spanish Garnacha style.
Hillcrest’s 2017 Pinot Blanc is inspired by old-school Northern Italian whites. Dyson’s “Bianco” boasts Umpqua Pinot Blanc fruit, with super bright acidity and low alcohol. The palette offers lemon zest but also creaminess. This is a wine that “dances” on the palette.
All in all, time well spent at Hillcrest Vineyards in Melrose, East Roseburg. I thoroughly enjoyed my second visit to Hillcrest during my tenure here in the Umpqua and would highly suggest anyone to do the same if they find themselves with some down time here in the Umpqua.