Visiting a Bordeaux tasting in the Big Apple!
Blame Napolean for mandating the French Wine Classification system. The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 resulted from the 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris, when Emperor Napoleon III requested a classification system for France’s best Bordeaux wines that were to be on display for visitors from around the world. The Brokers from the industry ranked the wines according to a chateau’s reputation and trading prices, which at the time was directly related to quality. This established the premier cru, first growths, and second growths that have been built upon over the years and that many are familiar with. A later classification by St. Emillion ranked their wines based on terroir and vineyard character and so were not required to be based on the Chateau’s reputation. To confuse matters more, the original classification only considered wines from the Left Bank (the Gironde river divides the Bordeaux region into Left and Right sides, and wines made on the left side favor more Cabernet Sauvignon-driven Blends while right bank wines favor more Merlot-driven Blends). Officially, (and originally) all the first growth Crus were from the Left Bank (Chateau Margaux, Chateau Haut-Brion, etc). Of course, the classification has been added to over the years and changed to include other vineyard sites, chateaus have gone up or down in premier vs. 2nd growth, etc., but by and large, the classification remains as the backbone of the French Wine Industry and is emulated in other areas of the French Wine regions. The governing body of French Wine has also focussed on what wines can be grown in what regions and how they can be made to preserve the true French Wine history, character, and something they refer to as the “French Wine Lifestyle”. All pretty heady stuff for the novice but once you dive into the various AOC designations, and the 60-plus appellations of French Wine within the Bordeaux region, it’s downright labyrinthine. But suffice it to say, the “Union Grands Crus Bordeaux” is a trade organization that showcases the vintages from Bordeaux yearly in a trade show for professionals and lay people. The tasting this year in New York City serendipitously occurred on the week I happened to be visiting Isabel and so it was not without coincidence that tickets were acquired. We made our way down to Cipriani Restaurant on 42nd Street midtown in what appeared to be an old bank building with the original teller booths etc. The Wine was arranged around the room in the various appellations Margaux, Haute-Medoc, Listrac-Medoc, Pessac -Leognan, Graves, Saint Emillion, Paulliac, Pommerol, etc. Each chateau from that appellation supplied their 2020 vintage, red or white or both if applicable.
Understanding the blending of red French Bordeaux wine is even more intriguing, 5 noble Bordeaux grapes make up allowed blends. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec, and Petite Verdot. Carmenere has fallen in and out of favor as a very secondary player. Again, the Left banks are using primarily Cab driven blends while the Right banks of the Gironde River estates are showcasing Merlot as the primary player with other grapes taking up supporting roles.
Let's get to the wines! We started (where else) on the Left Bank in the appellation of Graves in the southern end of the Left Bank where we tried a Chateau de Changegrieve White Blend (60% sauvignon Blanc and 40% semillion) - fairly typical of Left bank white Bordeaux Blends. Uncharacteristically, Graves is the only appellation in Bordeaux (prob all of France) whose name actually describes its terroir (gravel) from the Gravel soil which typifies the region. The Caroline Cuve blend is the white wine from the Chateau and displays an opulent and aromatic nose. I find myself tasting the terroir more immediately in French wines and the Graves appellation is no exception. Lots of minerality with radiant and fresh grapefruit, citrus notes, rich pineapple, with a beautiful nose. Neutral french wood aging enhances the apricot and apple notes. The wine is well-balanced with zippy acidity. A very reasonable mid $20s bottle punching well above its wine weight for quality.
Without getting overly didactic (we tasted over 16 wines and so the remembrance of the details of the evening was getting a little more challenging as we went on), we’ll discuss the highlights.
Another solid offering was from Chateau Rauzan Gassies, Margaux appellation, 2eme Cru
Classe Bordeaux. The wine is a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot. 2020 offers exotic spice, perfumed and red and blue fruit notes, and carrying complex notes of black currants, black truffle, walnut, bark, and earth follow through to a full body with dense, refined tannins that are layered and chewy, yet silky (uh -huh). Medium to full-bodied and nicely textured on the palate, it has good mid-palate density, ripe tannins, and solid balance. Per Jub Dunneck - Another beautiful Margaux with lots of Character and a solid 20 years of prime drinking ahead.
OK, it's easy to like a Margaux but one that surprised me - I actually found myself enjoying some right bank-driven offerings, including a Clinet from Pommerol (80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon). Per the estate representative, the 2020 vintage had some very warm temperatures in July and August right before Harvest (September) with very little rain (7 mm in July, 20 mm in August) which produced very small but intensely flavored berries which contributed to the powerful mouthfeel and intense fruit notes. A rare vintage of power and fruit combined. Yep, I get what he’s putting down. This wine was perhaps the biggest head-turner for me , a guy that is decidedly in the Left Bank Camp when it comes to Bordeaux preference. But OK Chateau Clinet, you are forcing me to take a serious look at the Right Bank-style wines. Just when I thought I figured it out.
Another head-turner that defied classification was the Chateau La Tour Carnet. This Left bank wine from Haut-Medoc appellation is uncharacteristically and unashamedly featuring Merlot as the primary player !! Shocker!! What about the Rules!!?? All that said, it weighs in at 59% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% petite verdot 1% Cabernet Franc. Talk about defying expectations. It is notable in its exception to the well-established French Rule, Left Bank Cabs, and right Bank Merlot. But again, much like the Clinet from Pommerol (Merlot driven) it grabbed my attention with its finess and power.. Per the Chateau profile, dating back to the 12th century, La Tour Carnet is a genuine medieval castle with a moat. It is the oldest Chateau in the Medoc. Current own er Bernard Magrez has expended an enormous amount of time and energy (translation $$$) renovating the estates. Meticulous care is taken during pruning, leaf thinning, and green harvesting to reduce yields in the interest of fruit quality. The grapes are handpicked into small crates and sorted by hand before being transferred by gravity flow into wooden fermentation vats and then into barrels. This Chateau was included in the original 1855 classification.
There you have it, a very brief but interesting look at the 2020 Union Grand Crus Bordeaux. This may end up being an annual and a good excuse to visit New York and my beautiful daughter Isabel.
